A n aquarium is a living, breathing organism. As such, it requires a certain amount of care and attention—or it will die. Rarely is this demise a catastrophic event. It is usually a slow lingering devolution into oblivion. A new fish tank is interesting until it turns into just another job that must be done. Years ago, people set up aquariums so they could have something interesting to watch, besides TV, of course. Then technology comes along with computers, video games and cell phones, and fish tanks become relics. And yet, right now, these blasts from the past are having a grand renaissance—partially due to COVID.

The uptick in sales of aquatic products is by no means guaranteed to last. Therefore, retailers should fortify themselves by doing everything they can to encourage customers. A successful aquarium is a blend of many different elements. Perhaps one that is frequently overlooked is where the tank is located. Family members may find themselves at odds over tank placement. As a retailer, I can assure you, in today’s modern high-tech world, there are two places that should stand above all others: next to a TV and next to a computer. Proximity to things that are frequently used will ensure increased viewing of the aquarium. Just like where you would put a TV or computer, put a fish tank out of direct sunlight, but never in a room that is always dark.

Fish react to people. When they see someone approach the tank, many species will congregate near the front glass and literally “wag” their bodies from side to side, like a dog wagging its tail. They want someone to pay attention to them. 

Just as you want your house to be clean and inviting, so too should be a fish tank. As a retailer, you must drive this concept home by displaying fish in environments that might be described as pristine, but I prefer to call them “homey.” Seriously, no one wants to live in a model home, but on the other hand, no one wants to live in squalor either. It requires a happy medium, and this will dictate the judicious use of aquarium maintenance products. These items you can sell to your customers, knowing that they will make a substantial difference in the appearance of the tank and its environment, if they used with the properly.

Odds are great that it will be necessary to show or teach beginners how to clean a fish tank. A program I suggest is “Aquarium Maintenance 101.” You can make a video, or even several if you are creative, that demonstrate how a fish tank should be cleaned. Obviously, different environments will necessitate slightly variable approaches. The first thing you should do when you start a thorough cleaning of an aquarium is clean the front glass. Past this obvious job, I recommend taking off any filtration devices and cleaning them thoroughly. Always have new filter materials on hand to replace the dirty ones. I make the assumption here that everyone knows that aquarium aeration is a must - with one air-driven outlet (typically an air-stone) at least every 20-25 gallons of water. Even the output from large filters does not induce sufficient oxygenation into an aquarium. A thorough mixing of the water is critical to increase both the level of filtration and the level of dissolved oxygen. The warmer the water - the more important this factor becomes.

Every person with a fish tank of 20-gal. or larger should have water-changing equipment dedicated strictly to aquarium maintenance. Over the years, I have known people to employ tank-cleaning kits for emptying out kitchen and utility sinks, kiddie pools, dog baths, bird baths, clogged toilets, car-washing tubs, water heaters, etc. The list is endless, but the fish in an aquarium will rarely survive cross-contamination of this kind.

Getting back to water-changing kits, designing your own version would be a great way to set your business apart. Aside from the typically packaged items, you should include a 40-gal. trashcan and two (or more) 5-gal. buckets. These will be beneficial in tank cleaning. When possible, I always prefer to pump dirty water from a trashcan rather than a fish tank. In order to accomplish this, the kit will require a sump pump. 

Besides the ubiquitous clear hose found in most water-changing kits, you should include two hand-held siphon hoses with separate gravel washers. I recommend a 6-ft. hose for small tanks and an 8-ft. hose for 60-gal. or larger. 

The concept of sucking out aquarium water into a kitchen or utility sink using a sink faucet to pull out the tank water would at first seem quick and easy. The best way to do this is to gravel-wash the water into a clean and dedicated trash can. Once you pump the dirty water into a toilet or out onto the lawn, if you wish to take advantage of a great fertilizer for the grass, it’s time to wipe out any remaining detritus from the trashcan and start adding water from the tap. This will permit you to monitor water temperature and add any chemicals necessary to match the tank environment. 

This technique gives you more control over the entire process. You use less water and you put additives: chlorine/chloramine removers, marine salt, trace elements, etc., in the trashcan, not directly into the tank. Once the trashcan is full, you can check all the parameters, especially water temperature, before pumping it into the tank.

For cleaning the glass in the aquarium, I prefer a stick with a razor blade attached. It will take even stubborn algae off the glass. So-called cleaning or polishing pads will do little against such algae. A two-foot stick with a white cleaning pad built-in will be fine for corners and any areas near tank seams. You don’t want to cause any leaks with a razor blade.

Aquarium maintenance products are a vital part of your sales and even more critical for the people with tanks in their houses. And don’t forget to put a bottle of chloramine remover in each kit. Leave this step out of the equation and there will be no more fish left alive to take care of.  PB

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